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:: Countdown in Tahiti
June 11, 2000
Countdown in Tahiti
Tahiti and Moorea, French Polynesia
Forty Days.
That was the length of my 120-day world cruise. The M/V Riviera took its last breath in Papeete, Tahiti, after the World Cruise Company Co. - the organization that leased and operated it for this tour - filed Chapter 11.
Am I disappointed? Gravely.
Shocked? Not one bit.
From the moment I set foot on the Riviera - in fact, weeks before - clues popped everywhere like fireflies.
So why go?
First, I was not psychically or logistically prepared to travel another way. Second, I had confidence in Grand Circle Travel (GCT), the company through which I booked the tour. Third, I made a commitment to write a travel column. Last, but most important, I was not giving up my dream.
And it's a good thing.
I made it to Rapa Nui and Pitcairn Island, the hands-down highlights of my curtailed cruise. I met some incredible humans and I reaped the benefits of GCT's commitment to its customers: a full refund.
But when a dream cruise ends abruptly, Tahiti is not a bad place to land. And GCT helped quell the sting by providing accommodations, meals, calls home and tours of Tahiti and the neighboring island of Moorea.
I poked around Papeete on foot and skipped the Tahiti island tour as I was consumed with faxes to my travel agent who feverishly pieced together plan B. But I was front and center for Moorea.
One of the five Windward Society Islands, Moorea is a 30-minute catamaran jaunt from Tahiti, the capital of the Societies and the largest island in French Polynesia.
Our land tour included coastal drives, scenic lookouts and inland forays including a stop at the Polynesian temple at Opunohu Valley. And on the way we enjoyed the pale pink fleshy fruit of the spiny red-skinned Rambutan.
After a drive along Oponohu Bay we sailed in small boats to a neighboring motu or island for a barbecue, swim and stingray feeding.
I had to be coaxed out of the boat with assurances that the rays would not turn nasty unless I stepped on their tails. It was difficult to avoid their appendages whipping under the soles of my feet as the rays nuzzled my ankles. But the velvety soft creatures proved to be friendly and playful.
Once back at the hotel, I plotted my next move.
First, the obvious: Buy more planning time by changing the date on the GCT-purchased Papeete-LA-NY air ticket. But that turned into a no-go because of special rate negotiations between GCT and Air Tahiti.
Next option: The magnificent Renaissance Three cruise ship was in port, lighting up the harbor
like a Christmas tree. But its 10-day island cruise was booked solid.
I was priced out of other local cruises primarily because of the dreaded single supplement that forces a solo traveler to book accommodations for the price of two.
Open-air tickets were reasonable, but my having to book all lodging and activities for each destination was not palatable.
New Zealand and Australia had never been my top travel destinations, in part because they aren't easily accessible from the United States. But they were close now.
So, I decided to do what makes sense geographically, financially and logistically. Work with Joan Lee, my travel planner, to book back-to back-tours of New Zealand and Australia. Then I'd head to Indonesia, South East Asia, Asia and finally Europe. If I could reasonably pick up the Middle East and North Africa, that would be icing on the cake.
But it would all hinge on Joan. Could she confirm my first leg to New Zealand within the next 24 hours before my plane ticket home expired? If so, I'd island hop for a few days then make my connection. If not, I'd head back to the U.S. and regroup - a more costly and disappointing option.
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